Friday, November 27, 2015

Full Circle

The day before Thanksgiving 2014, I left the Bay Area and drove straight to Donner Summit, where I jumped out of the van with Titan and Star and started running around in the granite playground.  I felt an overwhelming sense of freedom and a very simple and pure sense of happiness.  I was finally fully committed to living the lifestyle I always wanted- life on the road.  I had lived out of my vehicle on the road on and off for varying amounts of time each year over the past five years, but this was different.  I had saved up and sold my car and I was going to be able to travel without working for much longer than ever before.  In January, Chelsea joined me on the road.  I originally hoped to make it until September, but after a few months, I turned to Chelsea and said, "I bet we can do a year!"  And here I am, the day after Thanksgiving 2015, getting ready to drive from Seattle to Tahoe, where we settle for the winter.

The trip isn't over by any means.  I wouldn't even consider it a trip any more.  Now it's just life.  A wonderful, beautiful, fulfilling life.  We are headed to Tahoe in hopes of experiencing the first good snow year after several dismal, frighteningly dry and warm years.  We will be parked, living inside a building for the next few months, although we hope to spend most of our time outside exploring the backcountry.  And, we have jobs.  For the first time in over a year, I'll be clocking in and earning a paycheck.  While the income is necessary, I think the transition will be a bit rough at first.  At least I'll be outside working at a ski resort!  After the winter, the plan is to hop back in the van in late winter or early spring, and do another western ski tour that will culminate back in Alaska.  

It seems appropriate that one of the first places I visited last year after leaving Tahoe was Indian Creek, and a couple weeks ago, we went back, before returning to Tahoe once more.  It felt like a nice way to tie things together and bring things full circle.  However, calling our route a circle, would be extremely misleading, as we went up, down, side to side, and round and round, in what would seem the most senseless path around the West that one could possibly imagine.  It made sense to us, as we chased the seasons and the activities we wanted to partake in at each time.  It didn't always work in our favor, as we had a warm and dry winter when we wanted to ski, which lent itself well to climbing, and we experienced tons of precipitation this spring as we tried to climb.  Nonetheless, we got after it- biking, skiing, hiking, backpacking, paddling, and consuming cookies all across the west.  To be honest, I'm not sure what mileage we were at when we left a year ago, but I think we may have amassed somewhere around 30,000 miles since last November (omg.  that's the first time I've thought about that and that seems absurdly impossible.  Like I said... not a circle).

It doesn't feel like a year has passed.  Time has made up it's own meaning since I've been on the road.  I sleep when I'm tired or when it's dark out, I eat when I'm hungry, I play when there's daylight.  Sometimes the days slip by without me noticing and suddenly a month has gone by.  Sometimes each moment lasts indefinitely as it swoops you up and carries you with it.  

Being on the road long term has affirmed that is is where I'm meant to be.  I'm happiest outside, exploring, watching my dogs play, discovering new places, and trying new activities.  I get antsy when I stay in one place.  The simplicity that comes with paring down your belongings to what you can fit in your van is liberating.  You are given time, one of our most valuable resources, and with that time you can make memories and create experiences, things that are more lasting and meaningful than any possession.  When you live in a small space (especially a vehicle), you are encouraged to spend most of your time outside.  The last year has been rich and fulfilling.  It has been filled with countless nights of snuggling up in the van with a smile on my face, my tired body relaxing after a day of physical activity and a feeling of contentment.

I've had the opportunity to connect with so many friends, both old and new and I've been reminded over and over again about the importance and simplicity of human connection and the overall goodness of people.  I've been awed by the generosity of the companies who reached out to us and helped us along the way.  I've been inspired by the quickly growing community of van dwellers and outdoor lovers who get out there and get after it.  I have the best best friend in the world, one who has put up with my van's problems, one who has dealt with me in all my moods, my stresses, my extreme highs, and my lows, and who I am so happy I could experience all the adventures of this year with.  I have a stronger bond than ever with Titan and Star and I love those furry critters more than I can explain.  I met the love of my life on the side of the road in the most organic and wonderful set of circumstances and I get to wake up each day excited to be with him and to knowing that our connection via this lifestyle forged our bond strong right from the start.

I've spent the last year amongst the trees and the mountains, under the stars and the moon, in the warmth of the summer sun, in the freezing winter snow, on rocks, in meadows, on trails, on the open road, stuck in the mud, in the desert, on the slopes and everywhere in between.  In an ever changing environment, you can't avoid growth, you can't become complacent and you can't get stuck in a comfort zone where you say 'maybe later.'  If you want something, you make it happen, and you make it happen today.  Not next week, or next month, or next year, or when you have more time or money or when you retire.  Life is waiting for you to discover your place within it.  Even if that place is as simple as living in a van and playing outside  The greatest way we can improve this world is to fill it with passion.  So get out there and find yours and pursue it relentlessly.  Find a happiness that is so contagious that it can't help but rub off on everyone around you.  The past year has been incredible.  And I can't wait to get back out on the road and do it again.














        

Sunday, November 15, 2015

Over Psyched and Under Prepared

As a van dweller, I have two schools of thought when it comes to preparedness.  

On the one hand, I feel prepared for anything at all times because everything I own is packed into the 55 square foot space that I live in.  I have downhill skis, cross country skis, snowshoes, crashpads, cams, ropes, harnesses, a road bike, a mountain bike, a PFD, dry bags, several backpacks, sleeping pads, two tents, several means of cooking food, art supplies, books, seven pounds of oats, three hammocks, a violin, and lots of other essentials.  Should I want to do an activity, chances are I have the basics somewhere in the van to make it happen.  

On the other hand, there are the times when we go away from the van.  Overnights and extended trips, and those rare times when people invite us to stay inside their home (usually we are invited to shower first, then inspected and if approved we are sometimes offered an indoor bed).  Suddenly, I panic because everything is no longer at my fingertips.  The van is outside in the driveway, or at a distant trailhead, or parked along the road somewhere and I am somewhere between 2 minutes and several days worth of travel away from it, and what if it were to suddenly snow and I should need my cross country skis?  Or what if I come across a cool boulder while backpacking and I need my climbing shoes? Or what if I'm inside someone's house and  I need my phone charger?  These are the things I think about, and these thoughts usually turn to action and that action is usually overstuffing my backpack.  On the Tahoe Rim Trail, my pack weighed about 60 pounds the day of our last resupply.  That's half my body weight.  But hey, I needed my glow sticks, two GoPros, a down jacket for those 65 degree overnight lows, and all that other necessary stuff.  

A sub-thought in the preparedness spectrum is this: because we live in a van, we travel to lots of different places where there are lots of different things to do.  And we like to try them all, but don't necessarily invest the time into them that would lead us to purchase the best gear for said activity, nor do we usually follow the proper sequence for introduction to activities.  We just jump in 100% using the gear we have and see how it turns out.  We usually end up being over-psyched and under-prepared.

Anyway, Chelsea, Titan, Star and I were in Alaska packing for our very first bike tour.  Two days before, we had one of the more epic failures we've ever experienced on what was supposed to be our very first bike tour.  We made it one mile.  That's not a joke.  On round two, we decided to try to cut a bit of weight.  Because that one mile felt pretty damn hard.  We were feeling very proud of ourselves because we both owned one of those tiny hand pumps that you hope you never have to use because there's no way you are going to get that tire to 100 psi standing on the side of the road in your spandex, cranking that thing until your arms fall off.  Look at us, we thought, bike touring pros.  Then we looked at my mountain bike tires and all four Burley tires and realized that they were all schrader valves and both the hand pumps were presta only.  Welp, we'll just take the WHOLE ENTIRE FLOOR PUMP with us on this 250 mile tour.  NBD.  Heaven forbid we spend $15 on another hand pump, because, please we just spent like $47 on Snickers bars and a teeny thermometer so we could confirm that it was freezing out when we felt freezing, so really there was no room left in the budget for such frivolous items.  So we weren't successful at saving weight in that department, but I made up for it by bringing a two inch toothbrush instead of a regular sized one, which meant that I got to carry an ounce less and that I got to stick my fingers fully in my mouth every night after dinner.  
We were physically prepared for bugs... mentally, not so much

Now may be a good time to reiterate that neither of us humans, nor either dog, had ever done a bike tour before.  We didn't have panniers or touring bikes or a super light tent or any of the items you might consider standard for a bike tour.  What we did have was one mountain bike, one hybrid cross bike, two Burley trailers and a lot of excitement.  We figured we would just go for it and hope it all panned out.  With the forecast showing a week straight of rain, we loaded up our Burleys with four bear canisters of human and dog food, our bike pump, some extra layers of clothing, camping and cooking gear, and Titan and Star, and we hit the road.    


All in all we spent eight days and 250 miles on the Denali Highway.  Sure, a little extra preparedness and know how would have made our lives easier a few times.  Like when I somehow lost the use of my granny gear and had to bike the hills on over half the ride at a glacial, threatening to tip over pace, it could have been nice to know a few things about bike maintenance.  It also would have been good to have prepared for the possibility of freezing temps and little snow flurries because it did do that (in August).  Fortunately, we had enough layers to keep fairly warm, and after biking for a bit we could maintain a comfortable temperature.  We did suffer a bit in the rain, but I don't think any amount of preparedness would have made that suck less.  But it all worked out.  We had the energy and the enthusiasm to make it happen.  Each day we woke up with the excitement of another day on the bike, exploring the majestic scenery of Alaska by our own power.  We worked together with Titan and Star, alternating their running and sitting in the Burleys and we completed an awesome journey together.  The Denali Highway was some of the best fun I've had this year, in a year spent doing only fun things.  Sometimes you just have to get out there and try new things and not worry about the fact that you're towing a 100 pound trailer behind your mountain bike for eight continuous days on your first bike tour ever.  Oh, and none of the eight tires needed air the entire trip.  So we brought that whole pump along for nothing.





Sunday, November 8, 2015

Night Photography

After a couple of years of shooting pictures almost exclusively on my iPhone, I recently decided to get out my DSLR to make an attempt at learning to shoot on manual.  One reason I really wanted to do this was to be able to take nice night photos.  I am beginning to understand how to do this and have had the chance to practice quite a bit lately.  I still have trouble getting the shot to be focused, partly because I don't have a tripod, and partly because when I look through the viewfinder it's really dark out and I can't focus when I can't see anything, but I'm having a lot of fun learning.  If you have any tips on getting the focus right, please let me know!  I'm posting this from my phone, where the pictures are small enough to look decent, but if you're looking at this on a computer, they're probably pretty blurry!  I still have a long way to go, but here are some shots I've taken lately:

Silas on the side of the highway in Valdez, AK
Northern Lights over Silas and Old Gray in Yukon Territory
A rather blurry and a bit dark, but a nice view from our campground in Indian Creek.
Fun with headlamps
The neighbors campsite, they had a big fire and lots of headlamps on
Silas in the Manti-La Sal National Forest.
Same location as above, this time my camera is resting on a tractor shovel
Camped out in White Sands National Monument, NM
White Sands National Monument, NM       
One more from our 'backcountry' campsite in White Sands

Friday, November 6, 2015

Silas Strikes Again

Sometimes you go over a speed bump and your exhaust pipe falls off.  I mean, that totally happens right?

So we are leaving White Sands just as the park is about to close.  We go over one of those abrasive speed bumps that makes you go bambam! and there are two more in sight before the exit to the park. "Hold on everyone, abrasive speed bumps ahead!" I call out.  We go over the first one and there is suddenly a huge clank noise and I can feel something dragging and scraping across the ground.  Brian jumps out as Star basically jumps into Chelsea's lap, poor pup is terrified!  Brian informs us that our exhaust pipe has completely fallen off the van.  In the few seconds that it scraped against the ground it managed to bend and pretzel itself into a stuck position.  Now we get to jack up the van and try to puzzle the piece out while every single visitor to the park has to exit past us.  A super nice guy who is doing a year long road trip with his two kids (way to go cool dad!) helped us free the pipe eventually and we were on our way.  Hoping to find an open shop tomorrow! 



Monday, October 26, 2015

Operation Backcountry

The first time I went snowboarding, I spent most of the day on my butt.  I came home so sore that my dad had to carry little 10 year old me down the stairs to my bed that night.  I wondered if I would ever be good enough to make it down a run without falling.  A few years later, I was cruising along slowly, much better now, when a girl passed me, linking beautiful turns from toeside to heelside as she made graceful s's down the mountain.  I stopped next to my dad when I reached him and asked if he thought it was possible that I'd ever be that good.  (Of course he said yes).  My progression continued and eventually I was linking turns, going down steeper runs, and riding faster.  I reached the point of being as good as I thought I could get without hurting myself and at 21 decided to switch to skiing.  

I had lots of good reasons to switch to skiing.  The versatility, family influence and history, wanting to learn a new skill, and being tired of getting stuck on flat sections were among them.  But starting back at square one made me question my decision a bit.  Falling down, yard saleing all over the mountain, and being scared of going fast made me consider sticking with what I knew.  But, that first winter of skiing was also the last epic winter we had in Tahoe and all the powder provided a great cushion for my falling.  Over spring break, I got to enjoy 100" of fresh powder virtually alone, as everyone had either moved on to warm weather activities or couldn't make it over Donner Pass.

The goal was always to start backcountry skiing, but I had trouble making the initial investment into the gear and training I would need to be safe.  At the time, climbing was still my priority and any spare money I had went to climbing gear.  During our trip this year, climbing was definitely a feature, but it took a back seat to trying out new activities.  I discovered that my priorities had shifted to being active in the outdoors in beautiful settings, and I was having more fun doing a wide range of activities.  The time was perfect to start backcountry skiing.  

Enter Operation Backcountry.  Our plan to become proficient at skiing on unpatrolled, uncrowded, untracked terrain.  I've already purchased new skis and boots (I couldn't find anything used that was small enough for me) and skins and bindings.  Next, I will buy my safety equipment: shovel, probe, beacon, and eventually a float pack.  This winter, I will take an avalanche safety course in addition to going out with experienced friends and my boyfriend, Brian (he's a split boarder, it is a slight point of contention in the relationship, but we are working through it).  Anyone who belongs in the mountains will recognize the drive, the pull, the need to be out there.  I can't wait to spend my time exploring the Tahoe backcountry this winter.

As we sit here in sunny New Mexico, the snow has already started to fall in many places, included our intended winter residence, Lake Tahoe.  Despite the dismal seasons we have had there recently, we are giving the area another shot, because we love it so much, and because according to the weather reports, there is a high probability that it will be good.  Really good.  Chances are, we will cut this portion of our trip short, and head back to Tahoe within the next few days to transition back to winter.  We have already gotten in one day in the Utah backcountry- we drove as far as we could up the La Sals, then hopped on our bikes with our skis and biked until we kept skidding out and falling, then hiked until we found a suitable patch of snow, then skiied down it giddily.  We hiked back up and did it again and again until we were completely worn out.  We hopped back on our bikes, headed back to the van, and fell asleep with visions of powder turns dancing in our heads.


Saturday, October 24, 2015

Gear Love

I really love gear.  Sometimes I feel like I want to buy all the new gadgets, latest models, and coolest looking apparel.  But, living in the van has taught me that I can't have it all because 1. I don't have spare money for all the latest gear and 2. There is no space for more gear.  This year I have been very selective about acquiring things, and I am really excited about a couple pieces of new gear.  Here they are and here's what I like about them:


1. Spot Gen3 Locator: This isn't normally something I would have thought to get myself, but my Grandpa really wanted me to have one and gave it to me as a gift.  As it turns out, this has been really useful and fun to have.  I primarily use it to check in with my family and friends if I'm out of cell phone range, just click a button and it texts or emails them an "I'm OK" message.  I also used it to check in at each of our campsites on the Tahoe Rim Trail, and using the app, I had a map of all our campsites at the end of the hike, which was really neat and entertaining to look at.  In an emergency, you can call for rescue, and there are also settings that allow to call for assistance in a non-emergency situation.
  
2. Goal Zero Flip 10: Tiny and efficient, this thing charges up your phone, GoPro, or tablet when you need some power on the go.  While backpacking and bike touring, I charge this during the day using my Nomad 3.5 panel and then boost up my electronics in the tent at night.  I also charge it up in the van and take it with me on day adventures in case I am ever running low on battery.

3. Outdoor Research Helium II Jacket: As you can see from the picture, this jacket folds up TINY!  It weighs only 5.5 oz, so there is really no reason not to take it with you everywhere you go.  It's waterproof (though I've experienced a tiny bit of zipper seepage during extended periods of heavy rain) and it comes in a bunch of fun colors.  This thing will always be in my pack, on me, or clipped to my harness.

4. Hydro Flask 64 oz. Growler (18 oz. pictured): Keeps the colds cold and the hots hot!  The Hydro Flask Growler is my favorite option because it's HUGE and between me and the pups, we drink a ton of water.  If you're looking for a more portable and lighter option, the 18 oz. is my next most used.  The bottle is durable and can stand being thrown around a bit and your beverage will be ready to enjoy at the temperature you filled it up at any time of the day.

Thursday, October 22, 2015

Roadside Attraction

Finding Love on the Side of a Washington Highway

We had just finished a rather lazy day of bouldering next to the Wenatchee River.  The temps were finally becoming more agreeable and because our time in Leavenworth was winding down, we decided to make the most of the lengthening spring days and head to one more area before making dinner and turning in for the night.  The four of us jumped in the van, fired it up and began pulling out of the parking area to head down the highway.  On the roadside, I spotted a head of thick brown curls, laying on top of a kayak.

"I wonder if he needs a ride."  I pondered aloud.  "No he kind of looks like he's sleeping."  I continued talking half to myself and half to Chelsea.  "Should I ask?  Maybe not.  Actually, I'm going to ask."  We don't pick up hitchhikers often because we don't have any extra seats, and this guy wasn't even hitching, he looked like he was taking a pleasant nap.  For some reason though, I felt compelled to crank down the window and poke my head out.

"Hey!  Do you need a ride?"  I inquired.

The curls popped up and the kayaker smiled broadly.  "Sure!"  He replied.  (He didn't need a ride.  His friend was kayaking a lower section of the river and was about to come up the road and shuttle him back to his truck).  "Well, actually, my boat is all wet and so am I."  He had obviously noticed the pristine condition of the van and felt bad about the possibility of getting it dirty.

I told him it was no problem and we slid open the side door, threw his boat in with the pups and he hopped in and squatted between the two front seats.  He asked what we were up to, commented on the van, and the chalkboard cupboards that listed all the destinations we had visited so far this year.  We drove up Tumwater Canyon until we spotted a red truck at a pull out.  "That's my home," he said smiling and pointing.  He thanked us for the ride and hopped out.  As we were about to pull away, he ran up to my window.  He informed us that he would be at the brewery later with a couple friends and that we should maybe swing by.  We chatted there by the side of the river for a bit, and I smiled as he streamed from one topic to the next, his thoughts tumbling quickly, but eloquently, from his lips.  Brian.

We parted ways, not exchanging numbers or confirming the time that he would be at the brewery, but with a 'maybe we'll see ya later' that somehow felt like a definite confirmation that our paths would cross again soon.  Chelsea and I continued to the boulders and had a very high gravity session that ended with images of pints dancing in our minds.  We decided that we would casually roll by the brewery and see if there were any signs of a group of kayakers being there, as we had no idea what time they were planning to rendezvous.  Something about being in a huge grey van makes you less than stealthy, and as we drove by the brewery scoping it out, a large group of boaters heads turned and we were noticed.  "Well, I guess that settles it," we said, "we are going to the brewery!"

We spent a few hours at the brewery, enjoying some tasty beers courtesy of Brian and learning all about 'going to church' and the claw from the paddlers.  After a while everyone began to head off in different directions.  Earlier, Brian had mentioned that he was housesitting and said house had a shower.  "Oooh, you know how to sweet talk the ladies!"  I had replied excitedly.  The opportunity for a free shower is few and far between and very, very valuable.  We got the address from Brian's friend, and they biked off as we prepared the van.  Somewhere in the address exchange, some numbers got transposed and we spent a few tense moments driving up and down the street trying to find a house number that didn't exist.  Of course, we still hadn't exchanged numbers so we had no way of contacting Brian.  I briefly wondered if we would see our new friend again.  I suggested we try driving a bit further up the street and at that moment, Brian popped out of the house and crossed the street to get something from his truck.  Relieved, we parked in front of his truck and headed inside.

Showers were not to be the first order of business, and before we knew it, we were all riding bikes through town and poaching a hot tub.  We soaked for hours, hopped back on the bikes and headed towards the van.  Chelsea was beyond excited to be riding a bike for the first time in a while.  She zoomed off down the street.  I was on a cruiser and wasn't getting anywhere very fast.  Brian biked up beside me.  "Come here often?"  he asked, and we shared smiles and biked off into the night.

Somehow it was decided that we were all going to paddle inflatable kayaks the next day.  Brian and his friend Chris assured us that we would be going down a mellow section and that we could definitely handle it.  Chelsea and I had taken IKs down the Colorado and we weren't too nervous, but we are also marginally terrified of water so we just hoped that everything would go well.  Brian and Chris gave us a paddle talk and we prepared to launch.  We were told to paddle up river at an angle so we could get in the middle before turning and heading down river.  For some reason, when I jumped in my boat everything started happening really fast and I was headed down river instead of to the middle.  I immediately got stuck in a hole.  I wasn't sure what to do so I just kept paddling, but I wasn't going anywhere.  Brian, used to his river kayak, thought he would just bump me out and we would all be on our way.  Unfortunately, when he bumped me he went flying out of his boat and into the river.  Shoot!  I looked back and Chelsea was on her way right towards me and before I knew it, she was in the river too!  Chris had barely gotten into his boat and here I was stuck in a hole and our other two paddlers were swimming.  After Chelsea's boat hit me, I popped out of the hole and was able to eddy out.  It was surprising how fast everything happened on the water, but reassuring to hear Brian's calm explanations of what to do.  We completed two laps, Chelsea and I swam multiple times, and it was simultaneously exhilarating and completely terrifying.  Brian and Chris were in dry suits, but Chelsea and I weren't and we were freezing by the end of the second lap.  It was time for that promised shower.  Yes!

Later that day, the Icicle came up and Brian and Chris got amped to go paddle.  We said we would help them run the shuttle, so we all headed up the canyon.  At the end of the lap, Brian took his boat out of the water and was exhilarated.  It's rare to see a passion like that, it was almost tangible.  "Do you mind if we do another lap?!" he asked.  Of course we didn't.  Then he leaned over and kissed me on the cheek.  Then, not to leave anyone out, he looked around and leaned over and kissed Chelsea on the cheek.  Brian and I ended up in the same shuttle car back to the top of the run and apologized for kissing me in front of everyone and said he hoped that it was ok.  According to him, I had an ear to ear grin on my face as I told him that it was fine.  I won't deny that.

That night after dinner Brian grabbed my hand and pulled me to my feet to dance.  He swirled me around the kitchen as we giggled.  We spent the rest of the week with each other.  We rode bikes, we took the dogs hiking, we cooked meals together, and we danced around the house, we went on car rides, we talked, we shared stories and photos, we watched movies, and we read books together.  In between this, Chelsea and I continued to climb, and Brian continued to paddle and I would look at Chelsea wide-eyed and say "I'm scared.  What's happening!?"  I knew what was happening, I was falling in love, but I was terrified because it was all happening so quickly.  After spending five days together, it was time to part ways.  Brian was going to paddle the Sultan, and Chelsea and I were heading to Seattle.

Brian looked at me very sincerely and explained that what he was about to say might be crazy but he didn't know when he would see me again and he felt like he needed to say it before I left.  "I love you."  I smiled.  "I love you too," I replied.  We realized how crazy this would seem to others, but we also knew that we had something incredibly special.  And with that, we went our separate ways.  Over the next few months we communicated via love letters and phone calls.  We saw each other briefly here and there in our travels and each meeting confirmed how right being together felt.  It has now been six months since we met, and every day Brian finds a way to make me happy, to bring a smile to my face, and to make me feel special.  Life on the road brings adventure, fun, excitement, and sometimes, very beautiful surprises.