Sunday, December 28, 2014

Warm-Up

I was faced with a few minor hiccups before getting on the road- costly van repairs, selling my car took longer than I thought, etc., but once everything started wrapping up my friend Eric gave me a call and made an exciting proposition.  He had just been relieved of his working duties and was psyched to head out to the desert.  I was still waiting for Chelsea to finish up her employment and join me in the wonderful world of retirement, so I jumped at the chance to hit the road with someone for a month before the holidays.  Winter had not started taking shape in California yet, so we still had climbing on our minds and decided to hit up the desert for a while.  I packed up the Silas and headed for Tahoe to pick up Eric.  I jumped out of the van on Donner Summit, let the dogs out, and spent the next three hours hiking over pebbly granite, through thick trees, past several small lakes, and breathing deeply for what felt like the first time in a long time.  The sense of liberation of being on the road hit me immediately and I smiled and felt very simply happy.

Eric and I left on Thanksgiving day, which turned out to be slightly problematic because we hadn't stocked up on provisions and couldn't find any stores open, so we were on a granola bar diet for the first two days of the trip.  We had our sights set on Ibex, right across the Utah border after driving Highway 50 across Nevada.  Ibex was unique and very intriguing.  We only spent a day there but it is definitely somewhere I would return.  The rock was very featured and the landscape made me feel like I was walking on the moon.  I could feel how out of shape I was, but Eric went on a sending spree all over the boulder field.

After Ibex we headed to Moab, where we spent a day bouldering at Big Bend.  The boulders here are beautiful and STOUT!  I didn't feel bad getting shut down on most things I tried because the movement was fun the location was gorgeous.  I couldn't help but stare up at the walls all around us and get excited about roping up.  I haven't spent any significant time on a rope this year and I was anxious to see how hard the Creek would kick my ass this time around.  With our psych high, we loaded up on groceries and headed south.

I've been to Indian Creek in the Spring and in the Fall and in both seasons have experienced snow and 85 degree temps.  This was the latest in the year I had ever visited, and I was wonderfully surprised on the perfect temperatures and the complete lack of people.  We met some great new people, met up with a couple of old friends, and had a great time filling the short days with splitter cracks.  One of our new friends, Adam, celebrated his 25th birthday by climbing 25 pitches in one day (video coming!).  It was awesome to watch him complete his 25th lap in the dark on Incredible Hand Crack.

After about a week in the Creek, we headed over to Joe's Valley with our eyes on some old nemesis projects as well as a long list of new things we wanted to try.  We quickly found out that the forks were FREEZING and only got about 10 minutes of sun a day, which tamped out my motivation pretty quickly.  New Joe's was quite pleasant, and Eric and I both put down an old project each before deciding to head back to the Creek for warmer temps.  After a few more days of Creek climbing, rain was in the forecast and a big storm was projected to be coming through Tahoe.  Suddenly, thoughts of powder days consumed our minds and we were back in the van headed for Truckee.


Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Committed

I think it's safe to say I've officially committed to van life.  I was a little wishy washy about it last winter when I was only living in the van for about two months until I ran out of money and went back to work and lived in an apartment for a while.  But this time, I'm all in.  I sold my car last night.  My nice, super reliable, 4WD Honda with 150,000 miles on it, to show some solidarity to Silas, my less nice, less new, 2WD rig with 230,000 miles on it and a slew of needed improvements.  Hope I don't regret that one...  I've also given away three large trash bags of clothes, sold another bags worth, as well as anything else around the house I thought someone would pay good money for.  I put a bunch of money into Silas and new gear.  I said goodbye to my boyfriend his his pup, Mars.  And this morning, I traded in all the coins in my piggy bank to make sure I have the most money possible so I can have as much fun as possible before I need to get another job.   I leave tomorrow.  Well, technically today!  I am so, so excited, and also suddenly apprehensive.  Climb, ski, bike, play, explore.  Here I come!

Bye Mars, stay cute.

Monday, November 10, 2014

I am cool, dammit!

Recently, I applied to be a winter brand ambassador for one of the more well-known clothing companies in the outdoor industry.  They were searching for people who had big plans for the coming cold months and could proudly wear the company's clothing and document the awesome things they did while wearing said clothing.  Oh my gosh, perfect, I thought.  I love free shit, I take decent pictures, or at least they look cool enough with an Instagram filter, and I happen to have big plans for the winter.  Score!  Of course, I didn’t find out about this opportunity until the very last day that applications were being accepted.  It was a rainy day (the rainy day so far this year in California), so I had convinced myself that it was totally legitimate to spend the entire day watching tv and putting around on the internet.  I typed my responses into the fields,  Skiing, dogs, snowshoes, van, awesomeness, yea!  I answered the questions about how many followers I have on Instagram and Twitter and how many friends I have on Facebook and skipped the one about my klout score because I had no idea what that meant.  Submit!  Apparently my application had timed out.  Being no stranger to taking way too long to fill stuff out, having internet malfunctions, etc., I had conveniently copied and pasted my answers into another document so I just re-inserted them, and hey! I even had a new Facebook friend since the first time I had submitted it.  Bonus!  Much like my college application essays, my work may have benefited from a bit more time and focus, but I thought, hey I have cool plans, they should speak for themselves.


After submitting my application I allowed myself to get a little bit excited.  Eeeee what if I get picked?!  How cool would it be?  I could share my awesome adventure with other people, and I could wear all my cool free gear all the time, which would actually be extremely beneficial because I have exactly one pair of seven year old snowpants to get me through what promises to be a very exciting winter indeed.  Anyway, some time passed and then today I was scrolling through my Instagram feed and there was a photo of lots of tiny little faces smiling back at me saying ‘we are the new winter ambassadors’!  My face was not one of the tiny faces.  I was immediately disappointed.  And then a little bitter.  And then I noticed that one of the tiny faces was a friend of mine, and I was instantly lifted out of my grumpy feelings and stoked for my friend, because he is actually a complete badass who totally deserves this.  And then I went back to being grumpy again.  


‘Maybe my application didn’t go through,’ I thought, ‘I never got a confirmation email or anything.’  SELF!  SELF, GET A GRIP!  DO NOT BE A SORE LOSER.  Apparently there is a logical part to my brain.  The logical side of my brain talked to my little pouty child brain.  It explained that there are tons of people out there doing neat, amazing, bold, wonderful things with their lives.  Lots of things that are considered cooler than what you are doing.  Many of these people are recognized for doing these things by sponsors and many of them are not, but they continue living their lives and pursuing their passions because they believe that what they’re doing is fulfilling to them personally.


I will admit that I struggle with craving validation for the things that I do.  I want people to see my pictures on Instagram and like them and think, ‘wow, that looks really awesome.’  I want people to read my writing.  I want people to be interested in what’s going on and follow along on my journey.  Of course I want some cool company to come across something that I’ve posted and be like ‘where did this chick come from, let’s sponsor her, and give her free things and lots of money so she can live her dreams!’  It is embarrassing to admit all those things, but they are true.  


Sometimes I tell myself, it is just the age we live in now.  That social media has truly become part of everyday life for a majority of people and there is nothing wrong with being deeply invested in the way you share your life with others.  And that being part of the outdoor community generally means you’re poor, so of course you want sponsorships.  And obviously there are exceptions, like Chelsea, who still uses a flip phone and barely knows how to use Facebook, and like the man I read about the other day who went on a worldwide road trip for twenty something years and was contacted by lots of companies hoping to sponsor him and he was like, nah.       

But me, I want to be liked, and I want to be cool.  And today I fully admitted that to myself maybe for the first time, and it was actually kind of eye opening.  I know the things that I do really aren’t that cool.  Even using the word ‘cool’ more than once in a single piece of writing is very uncool.  I know I don’t climb very hard, I don’t conquer hard or dangerous objectives.  I’m not a very good skier, hell, I don’t even ski backcountry yet because I haven’t been able to splurge for my avy course.  I don’t backpack long distances.  But still, I want to be cool.  Why is that?  From my conversation with the logical part of my brain I learned that I need to be more self confident, and I need to stop seeking validation from others because in my heart of hearts (whatever that means anyway.. I have one heart and I don’t think it contains other hearts within it), I know that when I am on the road, I am living the life I was created to live.  I know that I am fully engaged in the act of being a breathing human and not just acting as a bystander while life streams past.  I see the earth’s beauty.  I feel passion.  I meet amazing people.  I explore.  I am happy.  So why should I care what other people think?  I guess I shouldn’t.  If somebody does see a picture, or read something I write, and think ‘hey, that’s neat, I’m going to get out there and do something that I’m excited about,’ that would be awesome.  In the meantime, I’m just going to keep reminding myself: I am cool, dammit.   

Monday, October 27, 2014

The Plan

For the past few years, my life has revolved around working a seasonal job, saving as much money as I can, hitting the road, having amazing adventures, running out of money, and then doing it all over again.  Everything I do revolves around getting back out there as soon as possible, for as long as possible.  This year has been no different, but my last few retirements have been shorter than desirable.  After living and working in Berkeley since May, I decided to make a big plan for an epic trip, and really commit to the lifestyle that I love.  This time, there’s no backing out or going broke before the trip is done, I will find a way to make it work, and live the van life as long as possible (or forever, because that sounds good too).   

I officially retired last week and my period of funemployment has begun.  Everyone wants to know, what’s next?  What’s the plan?  So here it is.  I present to you:

The SuperDuperWinterSki/ClimbExtravaganzaThenComesSpringAndWeGoToALASKA!

That’s right!  Up until now, all our of our road trips have been focused on climbing (and sometimes eating), but this trip will start off with a strong focus on skiing, faceshots, and being total gapers, and will be followed up with some dabbling in climbing, a bit of bike touring, and an awesome drive up to Alaska filled with fun, fishing, possibly paddling and lots of jaw dropping scenery.  Here is the basic route, as of now:


Please note that this route is subject to change based on weather, psyche, suggestions from others, etc.


Twinning.
So, you may be wondering, why this route?  How did you pick where to go?  Well, a few years ago, the Mountain Collective, a pass that gives you access to 7 of the best ski destinations in the world, was created.  And, what better way to make the most out of this pass than commit to visiting all the locations, skiing all our included days, and traveling between each place in an awesome van?  Nothing could be better!  We threw in a couple of other locations that may still be climbable on our route, as well as a few other places we’ve wanted to check out for a while (the Wave in Arizona; Taos, NM; and Big Sky, MT).  The areas we get to visit on our pass are: Squaw Valley/Apine Meadows, CA; Mammoth Mountain, CA; AltaSnowbird, UT; Aspen Snowmass, CO; Jackson Hole, WY; Ski Banff-Lake Louise- Sunshine, Alberta, Canada; and Whistler, British Colombia, Canada. We get two days of skiing at each location, plus 50% off all additional days.  At $389 (at the time we purchased), this pass is a screaming deal, considering that one day of skiing at any of these locations is $100+.  We’ve lived in Tahoe and Jackson Hole, but all the other destinations on the pass are brand new to us, and we are PSYCHED!  



But wait, I thought you guys weren’t good skiers?  Well, that’s a fair point.  We really aren’t that good at skiing.  We switched over from snowboarding a few seasons ago and are slowly making our way to competency.  But that won’t stop us from embarking on this adventure.  Chelsea and I are probably two of the most committed people to doing things we don’t excel at.  I mean, who else do you know who consistently leaves their job, home, and family to pursue mediocrity?  While we aren’t total pros at skiing or climbing, we are really, really good at having fun and living on the road.  So that’s the real reason we do this- to experience adventure, have a good time, meet new people, be outside, and be awed by nature.  In addition, we will be pursuing other winter activities such as skijoring, snowshoeing, and cross country skiing.  

After the ski extravaganza, we will wait for spring to come and roads to become less treacherous, and we will make our way up to Alaska.  Neither of us have been there and have been talking about going for years.  We will take our time driving up and enjoying the road trip, and have yet to nail down plans for once we reach Alaska, but we are leaving things pretty open to exploration as of now.  So folks, that’s the plan and we’re (mostly) stickin’ to it.      

Thursday, July 17, 2014

29 Hours of Uncertainty

This blog is about my cool van and the love of the open road.  But it's also about me and the experiences I have that aren't always related to climbing or living in a van.  One year ago today, my Dad had a massive heart attack while I was in the backcountry.  By some stroke of luck and coincidence, an off-duty ranger and I happened to be at the same place at the same time and he passed on a message that my family was trying to contact me.  This is my story about getting back home.  I wrote this right after my Dad passed away and I'm choosing to publish it now, one year later, with the thought that maybe putting it out there will make me face the fact that it happened.  From what I've heard, denial isn't actually that good for you :).  This is part 1 of 3, and whether the next two sections get published remains to be seen.  My Dad taught me all the important lessons that guide my lifestyle.  He taught me to do what I love and not let society dictate my choices.  So I bought a van. And I'll take the memory of my Dad with me on all my adventures.  I'm not hoping for any kind of response to this post, lots of hits, or even expecting many people to read it.  All I'm doing is telling my story.  Because I feel like it.   


Part 1: Backpacking


Tuesday was my first double-digit mileage day.  Wednesday was my second.  Thursday was my first teen-digit mileage day.  Friday was my first mileage day in the twenties.  


It was 2:30 PM on Thursday, July 18.  We had arrived much earlier than expected to our camp at Moraine Lake and were relishing in the joy of our first “easy” day of the trip, a mere seven miles of hiking after the 24 that we had done in the previous two days.  I had just taken a refreshing dip in the lake when we were approached by someone who identified himself as an off-duty ranger.  


“Is one of you Laura Patton by chance?” He asked doubtfully.


My heart seized momentarily, but I looked up from my roll of Ritz Crackers and answered, “Yes, that’s me.”


“Your family is trying to get a hold of you, they want you to call home if possible.” He relayed the message that had been given to him.


I stared at him, confused.  I was 30 miles into the backcountry.  I didn’t have cell service, and the only way I would get it would be to hike 30 miles back to Sequoia National Park, where we had started our trip three days ago.  


Meanwhile, the ranger radioed back to HQ to tell them that he had located me.  More information came through his walkie talkie in unintelligible static.  The ranger started explaining that there was another ranger somewhere on the trail with a sat phone and that I could try to find her.  He listened to his radio again.  “Her Dad is in the hospital” he repeated back for clarification.


“Did you just say my Dad is in the hospital?” I asked disbelievingly.  


He nodded his head.  Shit.  What?!  I jumped to my feet and started cramming things into my backpack.  


“I’m hiking out now,” I said.


“I’ll go with you,” Chelsea offered as she jumped into action.
As information came through to the ranger, he relayed it to me, as I half listened.  “Now Allison [my brother’s girlfriend] says it would be better if you just hiked back, rather than trying to call,” he continued.


The rest of our party put their heads together and quickly began organizing logistics.  We switched tents- Chelsea and I would take the two-person and Kristen, Ben, and Becca would take the three-person that we had previously been sharing with Kristen.  We would hike out and take the truck, which was parked at the trailhead at Sequoia.  The remaining three would continue the hike to Whitney, where they could be picked up by Kristen, Chelsea, and Ben’s mother.  Thankfully, we had two water pumps, two first aid kits, and two stoves, so each group had what they needed.


Within ten minutes, Chelsea and I were back on the trail that I had been cursing just an hour before, because I was tired and sore and hot.  I prayed quickly, ‘let my Dad be ok.’  My mind began racing.  What had happened?  Different scenarios rolled through my mind, one after the other.  Heart attack?  Stroke?  I immediately ruled those out, my Dad was young and in great shape.  Maybe he slipped by the pool and hit his head.  Maybe he slipped on a dog toy and hit his head!  I started thinking of all the possible situations that could have occurred because of something my dogs did- my dogs that my Dad was kindly babysitting for me while I was on the trail.  Yes, maybe something had happened with the dogs and my family wanted me back to take the dogs off their hands.  Still, more possibilities flooded my mind.  After I had ruled out natural things like heart attack, feeling that was impossible, I decided there had to be some type of accident.  Maybe he had been in a car accident.  Maybe he had been in a motorcycle accident.  I saw my Dad winding around a turn on his CBR 600 and being smashed by a careless driver.  I shuddered and tried to push the image out of my head.  The thoughts wouldn’t stop and I knew that in the current situation they were not productive.  I didn’t know what happened, and I had no way of knowing until we got out of the backcountry.  All I could do was hike.  


The day seemed to have grown hotter in the afternoon hours.  Unfortunately we had several miles of climbing to do and not a bit of shade covered this exposed section of trail.  I was worried about Chelsea, as she has a hard time staying hydrated, and the conditions we were hiking in-- hot, sunny, and uphill, were sure to be taxing.  I, on the other hand, was probably borderline hyponatremic, consuming upwards of 6 liters of water in the first half of  the day and peeing way more often than was convenient.  


I tried to keep my mind occupied with other thoughts, but all I could think about was my Dad, laying in a hospital bed.  I turned on my iPhone speakers and listened to music but even that wasn’t enough to distract me.  Eventually we just hiked in silence, the only sound to be heard was the rhythmic cadence of our trekking poles striking the earth.  Finally, we made it to the summit of our climb.  We sat down and swallowed some energy chews before beginning the descent.  


Soon, we were back at the campsite we had left earlier in the morning.  We sat down to contemplate our next move.  Despite the situation, my mind remained completely rational.  I knew that pushing ourselves too hard wouldn’t do us any good.  I knew that if one of us became too tired, both of us would have to stop.  If one of us became dehydrated or undernourished, we would both be screwed.  I knew that our only way out was together and that we had to be smart.  After sitting down for a few minutes it became apparent that both of our bodies had no intention of hiking further that day.  It was about 6PM, so we decided to have dinner, make camp, and go to bed as early as possible so we could get a pre-dawn start the following morning.  We had hiked 14 miles that day and had 24 remaining until we were out.  It was unspoken, but I think we both knew that we would hike all 24 miles the next day, taking an extra day didn’t seem like an option.


Despite not feeling hungry, we forced down some food, knowing that we would need the energy, and also hoping to lighten our packs a bit.  We crawled into the tent at 8:00 PM with our alarms set for 4:00 AM.  


I didn’t sleep.  But I remained calm.  I knew that I needed rest and was able to reassure myself that laying silently through the night would rest my body enough for the task that would greet me in the morning.  My mind continued swimming, wondering what had happened to my Dad.  At 4 AM, the alarm blared and we were soon walking out of camp, packs and headlamps on.  It was still pitch black, not even a hint of sunrise provided any light.  Not ten yards out of camp, a pair of glowing eyes peered at us through the trees.  Then two more sets of smaller eyes shone out at us.  At our first campsite, we encountered a mama bear and her two cubs.  Could this be them?  We strained our eyes into the dark forest.  We banged our trekking poles together.  No response.  Clang! Clang! Clang! went our trekking poles.  The animals were unfazed.  They couldn’t be bears we reasoned, or they would have been scared.  Straining our eyes further, we thought we could make out the shape of deer.  We warily continued, looking back every few seconds until we felt safe again.  


We knew that the first three miles of our day would be a climb as we had to reach the summit of Kaweah Pass, at over 10,000 feet.  We once again hiked in silence.  The sun began to rise over the serene scene that lay before us.  Granite boulders, grassy meadows, a burbling creek, and giant mountains to either side of us.  In my head, I formulated silent goals for our day.  The first was reaching the summit at 6:30.  At 6:00, we sat down on top of the pass.  We were stoked.  We had kicked ass on the climb, completing the ascent from camp to summit much faster than we had completed the descent two days before.  We knew the next section of the trail was a huge descent down to Hamilton Lakes, and we started off purposefully.  As the sun continued to rise, the world became pink.  We hiked down to Precipice Lake, which was bathed in ethereal beauty.  ‘Damn you, Lake,’ I cursed silently.  ‘Stop being so fucking beautiful.’  I was literally mad at the scenery.  It felt horribly wrong to be hiking through beauty that was other-worldly while my Dad was suffering some unknown trauma.  ‘Fuck you,’ I said again to the lake.  


Seeing that my shoes were half a size too small, descents were actually somewhat unpleasant for me.  Nonetheless, we made it to Hamilton Lakes in great time.  We were at the halfway point of our first half of hiking for the day.  We had decided to break up the day into two distinguishable sections.  The first half was from Arroyo Junction to Bearpaw Meadow, about 12 miles.  There we would stop for several hours, eat lunch, and recuperate for the second half, Bearpaw Meadow to the trailhead another 12 miles.  So we were a quarter of the way through the hike and it was only 8:00 AM.  Things seemed to be going well.  


The next bit of hiking passed rather uneventfully.  We hiked down, we hiked up, we hiked down again, and then we hiked up again.  About three miles from our lunch spot, the day began to heat up.  The climbs became more of a struggle.  Our packs seemed heavier than ever.  We had packed ten days of food, but had only eaten three days worth at this point, so our packs were still about 45 pounds.  On one particular climb, when the midday sun beat down on us, and sweat prickled out of every pore, I allowed myself to think about how difficult our task felt.  But I immediately thought of my Dad.  ‘We’re coming Dad,’ I whispered.  ‘Please be ok.’  


Just before Bearpaw we walked past the High Sierra Camp.  A staff member was standing on the front porch.  


“Do you happen to have a phone?” I asked her.  


“We have a sat phone,” she replied, “but it’s only for super emergencies... Are you guys ok?”  


“Yea.  Yea, we’re fine,” I answered as we scurried past.  


The last mile of descent to our lunch spot, a nice creek just past Bearpaw, was pure hell.  My feet ached, I could feel blisters forming, and each step down meant my toes jammed into the ends of my too small shoes.  I refused to sit down, knowing that getting back up would be much harder.  It felt like hours passed as I slowly made my way down.  I felt utterly defeated.  I kept telling myself that once we sat down and rested for awhile, I would feel rejuvenated and the last 12 miles would be no problem.  Still, the thought of the remaining distance discouraged me.  We made it to the creek and threw down our packs.  I immediately took of my shoes and socks and plunged my feet into the ice cold creek.  I unstrapped my Thermarest from my pack and laid down in the shade for a nap.  


When I woke up I was in the blazing sun, sweating, and feeling like my blood was boiling underneath my skin.  I felt a little nauseous but knew I needed to start pounding water and cooling down if I had any hope of completing the hike.  Chelsea forced me to eat lunch, although I didn’t feel much like eating.  I put moleskin on the two blisters emerging on my right foot.  I dunked my hat in the creek and hoped for some evaporative cooling as we started walking.  


Soon enough, we were back on the trail.  The rest certainly helped.  I was very slow on all the descents, and I would catch up to Chelsea on the climbs.  At one point I turned on my iPhone to Taylor Swift.  Knowing all the words to all the songs meant that I could sing along and distract myself for a while.  I didn’t allow myself to look at the time until the entire album had played.  Chelsea and I joked and laughed a bit, knowing that it was important to keep our morale up.  Inside I felt guilty for laughing when I still didn’t know what was going on back home.  At a few points we thought we might be losing it- slowly going insane or getting delirious.  


I tried to tell myself I could only stop every hour, but breaks became more frequent, every 50 minutes, then every 45.  We hiked on and on and on and I started hating hiking, hating walking, hating my shoes, hating my backpack.  Several times I considered leaving my backpack on the side of the trail.


Finally, finally we could see the trailhead up ahead.  We staggered up to the truck and dropped our packs.  We had done it.  24 miles and 15 hours later we could stop hiking.  I pulled off my shoes to reveal a blister the size of a quarter on my right toe and another the size of two quarters on my heel.  I turned my phone off of airplane mode and it searched for a signal.  It went back and forth between deciding that I didn’t have any and that  I had one bar.  I desperately tried to get a text out to my Mom.  Retry.  Message Failed.  Retry.  Message Failed.  Retry.  28 hours after finding out something was wrong, I was desperate to know what it was.  In my mind, my Dad had died 100 times in 100 different ways.  I would not admit that out loud, but it was true that I had experienced my Dad’s death over and over and over in my head each step of those 24 long miles.  I longed to hear that everything was fine, that everyone was sorry to have worried me, but everything was under control now.  


We got in the truck and started driving out of the park.  I shook my phone hoping to get some kind of information from it.  I had butterflies in my stomach.  I wanted to know what was going on, but I also didn’t want to know.  After about an hour of driving, my phone started receiving texts.  They came pouring in and I caught snippets of a few as they rolled past on the screen.  “Just heard about your Dad, I’m so sorry” “I’m so sorry about your dad! I know how scary that is, I hope he’s doing better.” “There’s been an emergency with dad... if you get this text please get in touch with us.”  WTF was happening?!  There were also texts coming in from my Dad, pictures of my dogs and updates on what they had been up to, “Star ate her breakfast and her dinner!” was the last one he had sent.  


Chelsea pulled over knowing that I could lose service again at any minute.  I dialed my Mom’s cell phone.  She answered, which kind of surprised me because my Mom hardly ever even has her phone on.  


“What’s going on?!” I asked desperately.


My mom explained in a very calm voice, very characteristic of her.  On Wednesday night, my Dad was standing at the kitchen counter when he collapsed onto the floor.  My Mom dialed 911.  Sarah my 5’ tall 100 pound sister, started giving him CPR, which she continued until the paramedics arrived.  It took the paramedics quite awhile to get my Dad breathing and his heart beating again, almost until they arrived at the hospital.  My Dad was then moved to ICU where he was currently unresponsive, due to his brain going without oxygen for so long.


I was bawling.  I was honestly waiting for my Mom to finish the story with, now everything’s fine and he is resting comfortably at home.  But that didn’t happen.  I finished the conversation with my mom and sat shaking in the passenger seat of the truck, leaning against the window.  My body heaved up and and down and I sobbed with everything left inside me.  Poor Chelsea had seen me in this state before.  Three years prior, she had come onto a similar scene- me face down in the hallway of my house in San Luis Obispo, hyperventilating, wailing, and pleading for a different truth.  I had just found out that Tim was dead.  If ever there was a better friend in the history of this earth, I beg you to show me.  Chelsea has been there through it all, never missing a beat, never hesitating to be there for me.  


I eventually stopped crying.  My Dad was in stable condition and we really shouldn’t have been driving after the two strenuous days we had just completed.  When we reached Fresno we found a motel and went to sleep.  Surprisingly, I slept.  Everything felt unreal so it was easy enough to pretend that everything was fine.  We woke up the following day, toasted the Eggo waffles that constituted our complimentary breakfast, hobbled out  into the hot Fresno sun, and into the truck.  


We drove straight to the hospital.




Sunday, June 15, 2014

That Time I Really Didn’t Want to go Climbing but I Did and Then I Ate a Whole Box of Granola Bars and Had an Amazing Time

I recently got a job.  And I don’t mean that in the sense that I usually do when I have a “job”, I mean I sit at a desk for 40 hours a week and look at a computer until I go cross eyed.  It is seasonal though, and I'm working for an AMAZING company, so don’t fret, there is hope for my survival.  This came about because I want to live in my van and go rock climbing, which requires only a bit of money, but, of which I had none.  More on this existential crisis in a coming post though.  


Anyway, after all this sitting around, I thought, gosh, I really oughta go climbing next weekend.  So it was decided that I would go up to Tahoe the following weekend and climb, probably just a day trip, but it would humanize me again and it would be wonderful.  The problem with sitting around a lot is that the only thing it really motivates me to do is sit around some more.  Does anyone else have that problem?  Anyway, Saturday afternoon rolled around and I had still not left to go climbing.  I alternated between sitting on the couch and thinking about gathering my things and leaving, and sitting on my bed and thinking about gathering my things and leaving.  Eventually I decided I needed fuel and that fuel needed to be in the form of sugar.  I roused the dogs and we walked to Walgreen’s.  I carefully chose my snacks- peanut butter M&Ms (conceptually, the same thing as Reese’s Pieces, oddly, so much better.  Which is why I need three bags), Haribo Peaches (if real peaches were coated in sugar, I would eat them by the handful too), dark chocolate granola bars (I needed something healthy, duh).  At the checkstand a Lindt truffle caught my eye so I added that to my stash.  I had also grabbed a tube of toothpaste, because I was out, and it wasn’t until I saw all my items together on the counter that I laughed and realized that I had about two month’s worth of sugar intake (that I was planning on consuming in the next three hours) and toothpaste.  At least I’m a responsible sugar addict?



Now properly loaded with an arsenal of health food, I mustered up the motivation to get in the car and start driving.  I love climbing.  I love Tahoe.  But for some reason, I had spent the entire day not wanting to go climbing.  I think it had a lot to do with laziness and not wanting to drive, but it was a weird sensation- actively not wanting to go climbing.  I went into autopilot mode, stuffed my face with candy, and soon enough I was pulling into the Donner rest stop where I planned to sleep (because there’s a bathroom there, which can be nice).  However, my friend Eric texted me and told me that one of our friends, Ryan, was sleeping in his Sprinter in a much more pleasant place, so I headed over there, only to find he was already asleep.  I didn’t have Ryan’s number so I really hoped he wouldn’t be creeped out if he heard me outside.  I let the dogs run around for a bit, then climbed in the car for bed.  I realized how much I missed sleeping in my car, and fell asleep happy.  


The next day dawned quite a bit more warmly than I had expected, so the dogs and I rolled out of the car and played a bit of frisbee.  I heard some rustling from the Sprinter, and shortly thereafter Ryan emerged.  I hadn’t seen Ryan in years, but he rubbed the sleep from his eyes and asked “Lo Pat!?”


It was great catching up with Ryan, and we decided to walk from where we were out to the Saddle Boulders.  You used to be able to easily drive to the Saddles by going through the train tunnels above Donner Lake.  Unfortunately, the gate at the entrance to the tunnels is now locked so getting there is a little more tricky.  We decided just to hoof it.  It was a beautiful day and we were psyched.  We grabbed our gear, put the dogs’ packs on, I stuff granola bar 1 of the day in my face, and we were off.  


The day was glorious, the scenery was beautiful, the weather was warm, and the company was good.  Just being in the fresh air had done wonders for my psych and I felt happy and fulfilled just walking to the boulders.  The walk was flat, but considerably longer than a normal bouldering approach, so by the time we got to the rocks I was ready for granola bar 2.  We had an awesome time climbing.  We didn’t see anyone else the whole day, and we had enough shade to be comfortable.  Ryan sent Midnight Train, a super classic, and we worked on the Sombrero traverse.  I worked harder on my box of granola bars.  

Eventually we grew tired, and began the trek out.  The sun had seemed to intensify on the walk and it beat down on us as we looked longingly at the distant Donner Lake.  By the time we reached our vehicles we had walked 7 miles total with our heavy crash pads.  We beelined for the lake and jumped in.  The water was cold, but refreshing.  We climbed back out, said goodbye and went our separate ways.  I got in the car, ate my last granola bar, and drove back to the Bay Area, feeling rejuvenated and excited, because soon enough, I’ll be back on the road.     







Thursday, April 3, 2014

Life on the Road- The Evolution from Then to Now: Part 2

A continuation of why I love road trips, living in vehicle, and how it all began!

Chelsea and I met during my first year of college.  Chelsea was a third year and she was one of the leaders on the Joshua Tree climbing trip I signed up for with some encouragement (and cash) from my mom.  My mom thought it would be good for me to meet some other climbers, I thought it would be good to have a ride to Joshua Tree.  After the trip we were acquaintances and I would say hello when I passed her working at the school climbing wall.  Towards the end of the year I asked her what plans she had for summer.  She informed me that she would be participating in the Cal Poly study abroad program in Peru.  "You should come," she suggested casually.  I cocked my head to the side, thought for a second, then replied, "ok."  By the end of the week my deposit was paid and I was getting ready to head to Peru for the summer.  I think Chelsea was a bit shocked by my quick decision, and maybe a little unsure when I asked her at one of the pre-trip meetings if she would like to be my roommate at a homestay with a Peruvian family in Cusco.  I was a shy freshmen and didn't know anyone else in the room, Chelsea knew a few others going but she politely agreed.  It was in Peru that we became fast friends and realized our unique compatibility as travel partners.  There are those you can spend 24/7 with in small spaces, stressful situations, and after extended periods without showers, and there are those that, although you may like them equally well, can only be tolerated in small doses.  Chelsea is one of the former.  

When we returned from Peru we signed up for Fall classes, although we may as well have not.  I had class on Tuesdays and Thursdays which left Thursday evening through Monday evening for climbing trips.  I don't even know what Chelsea's schedule was, but the car was always packed Thursday night and we were halfway up a route in Yosemite by the time people were headed to class on Friday.  We operated on a rotation- Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Bishop, Tahoe, repeat.  We didn't skip a beat.  Each weekend we were racking up the miles, caking on the dust, and climbing til our fingers bled.  It was that fall that I began trad climbing in earnest, thanks to Chelsea's influence.  Winter and Spring quarter passed in a similar fashion, and by the end of Spring quarter we knew we should stop bothering with pretending to care about school, and take a quarter off to climb.  We spent the summer in Tahoe, climbing nearly every day and when Fall rolled around and people packed their cars with books and linens to move back to school, we packed ours with cams, tents, ropes, and crashpads.  

The Fall of 2010 was one to be remembered.  We climbed in California, Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Wyoming, Utah and Colorado.  We summited the Grand Teton on Chelsea's birthday, we met other inspiring road trippers, we placed cams, stacked pads, and clipped draws.  We baked in the sun, froze in the snow, were pummeled by the wind, sought shelter and dry rock in caves on rainy days.  We cooked Thanksgiving dinner on our tailgate by the Mammoth hot springs, and soaked our sore bodies after filling our bellies.  We realized that we could go where we wanted when we wanted.  We got used to the hum of our tires rolling down the road, the excitement and uncertainty of arriving in a new place., the satisfaction of cracking open a new guidebook, putting creases in the spine, wrinkling the pages and putting stars and checks next to routes that we loved.  'What could be better?' we thought.  Nothing came to mind.  

After that, the conversions began.  I needed to update my car to become a real road tripping dirtbag mobile.  First, I had my brother help me build a platform that rested on the back seats when they were folded down.  That way, I could take the platform out and still have a normal car with five seats.  When the platform was in, I could sleep comfortably on top of it while my gear was stowed underneath.  That was great for a while, until I decided I needed more space.  The section of two seats came out of the back.  That left one seat in the back that could be accessed when the platform was removed.  Just in case.  Eventually, all the back seats came out.  That was my final commitment to the road trip-mobile.  No back seats.  One passenger.  Lots of gear.  Comfortable sleeping.  From there, it was little improvements.  A cooking platform that folded out of the back and allowed for cooking under the tailgate.  Dinosaur print curtains to cover all the windows and keep it dark for sleeping.  A mesh screen that magneted to the roof of the car over the sunroof.  This allowed us to have air flow without bugs coming in.  The screen was one of my prouder ideas, and it worked out great until we forgot to remove it one morning and it blew off the top of the car while we were driving and was promptly run over and destroyed by a semi-truck.  

The CRV took us on many a wonderful road trip.  We amassed 140,000 miles on it in 5 years.   On one impressive trip last summer, we visited 29 states and 5 Canadian provinces in a 10 week, 12,000 mile whirlwind adventure.  We went to Kentucky for climbing, Tennessee for barbecue, Maine for lobster, New York to see the big city, New Brunswick for canoeing, Nova Scotia because why the hell not?  "Have you been to such and such a place?" some stranger would ask.  The answer was never 'no,' it was simply 'not yet,' and in most cases it became our next stop.  There were trips with others, Eric to Squamish, Ben to Joshua Tree, Alex to Bishop, a solo excursion for me to Minneapolis for a summer, but for the most part it was me, Chelsea, Titan and Star.  At night the four of us would crowd into the back of the car or into a tent and fall asleep thinking 'life is good.'  Recently the van was acquired (hence the Silas the Sprinter blog), and the road tripping has reached a whole new level of style.  It rocks. 

Most people enjoy road trips that come to an end.  They have a great time, but when it's all said and done they relish the thought of a warm shower, of sleeping in a real bed, sitting on their couch.   Sure, I've had moments, usually while epicing on a climb, or during a miserable stint of unending rain, where I've thought, "gee, I really wish I were just sitting on a couch watching a movie right now." or doing something similarly comfortable sounding, but the truth is, life on the road has become a way of life for me and I'm not sure there will ever be a time when I won't want to  hop in the car and go looking for an adventure.  When I'm in one place for too long I get antsy, restless, my thoughts drifting to pavement beneath my tires, the expansive vista that unfolds through my windshield, and the endless possibilities of where to go next.  

If road tripping were a career, I'd like to think I could be CEO, or at least somewhere in management.  In my travels, though, I always meet someone who has it more figured out, or who is doing it just a bit better.  There is no wrong way to get out there and do what you love, but there are ways to make it more financially feasible.  I haven't figured those ways out yet.  For now, it's work a seasonal or temporary job, stack some cash, hit the road til the cash runs out.  Repeat.  Sometimes the trips last for a while, sometimes they end much too quickly.  People like to say, "do it while you're young" or  "now is the time to do it" as if there will be a time when I'll suddenly grow out of my desire to be a bum living in a van and traveling to beautiful places and climbing awesome rocks, and I'll be ready to sit in a cubicle or do whatever it is that most people think you should do.  In reality, the present is always the time to do what you're passionate about.  Always.   

Life on the road opens you to so many possibilities.  You can truly go anywhere and do anything.  You get to witness so many amazing moments- gorgeous sunsets and sunrises, beautiful interactions between human beings, the unwavering happiness of a dirty and tired dog, stunning scenery, and the simplicity of happiness.  I love it.  And I think I"ll always love it.  What do you love?


Adventure On.  LP    

Sunday, March 30, 2014

Joe's Valley

People often ask me where my favorite place to climb is.  I usually respond with an "Ahahaha, oh gee, well that's a tough question they're all so amazing and different.  Uh, I guess maybe Yosemite."  That's usually a satisfactory answer.  You really can't go wrong with that one- massive walls of immaculate granite, pristine setting, world class trad, sport and bouldering, waterfalls, very conveniently located to the Bay Area and San Luis Obispo, mangy deer, bold critters who try to steal your food, the list of merits goes on.  But today I was thinking I might have a new favorite, one that is more decidedly a favorite and less of a default answer.  


Similar to Yosemite, it is quite picturesque: middle of nowhere Utah, men in camo shooting guns and riding ATVs, mines and mining equipment, giant bobbing cricket rigs extracting oil/natural gas/some other substance from the earth at all hours of the day and night.  Ahh, bliss.  Those things are just small aspects of Joe's Valley that contribute to its character, and in their own way, make me like the place.  The actual reasons I love Joe's are the perfect sandstone- beautiful streaked rock with unique features and perfect and imaginative lines, the river flowing down the canyon, the varied types of trees dotting the hillsides, the freedom from regulation, and of course, the Food Ranch.  Honestly, just give me the Food Ranch and I'll be happy.  In all seriousness, I've never had a bad time climbing at Joe's, and I've been there quite a bit.  I can always get psyched there, the rock is more or less kind to your skin, and there are lots of great problems in my range of difficulty.  
This trip started with a snowstorm and a few days of festering in the van while the rock dried.  We met up with Kevin again and he and I went out and scoped out some problems while Chelsea went on a six mile run in a blizzard.  On our reconassiance mission Kevin and I ran into our good friends Trevor, Jake, and Mackenzie.  Sweet!  The whole trip was filled with the coming and going of a great crew of friends, which kept things fun.  We met some other sprinter dwellers too, including Autumn from Georgia and Jesse from Canada.

Our first day on the rock was a little lackluster after a bit too much eating and sleeping during the storm.  After that, things began to pick up.  Chelsea sent an old project from a previous trip and I started working on Chips, something I had looked at on a previous trip and deemed too hard for me.  After a session and a half of working out the beta, I sent Chips on my first go  of my third day on it.  Progression! I think Chips may be one of my favorite boulder problems I've ever done.  The moves felt so cool and perfect when I did it, like it had been made just for me.

Another definite sign of improvement for me was sending Dirty Harry.  It represented a conquering of a mental block for me.  The crux was towards the top of this fairly tall boulder, and the fact that I was able to commit and finish the problem was exciting to me, especially after taking a huge fall from the top.  It's great having encouraging friends like Kevin who say things like, "if you don't commit to this move, I'm going to punch you in the face."  Thanks Kevin!

The whole time we were in Joe's was pure fun.  We sent some old projects and checked out a ton of new things.  I was loving the shit of van life, making delicious food, sleeping 12 hours a night, hanging out with amazing people, and climbing awesome rocks.  What could be better?  So maybe I do have a favorite place to climb, and maybe it is Joe's Valley.  With so much rock out there that I have yet to climb, there are still plenty of opportunities for me to find a new favorite, but Joe's will always be a special place to me, and always somewhere I look forward to returning to.   

Adventure On.  LP     

        








Saturday, March 1, 2014

Life on the Road- The Evolution from Then to Now: Part 1

The first time I ever climbed outside was with my friend Kelsey.  She had seen my flailing around in the gym and taken me under her wing, guided me, and helped me become a better climber.  Eventually she deemed I was ready to try the real stuff.  I borrowed my dad's Audi, I had heard the road to Castle Rock was a windy one, and thought his sporty car would handle the curves well.  I picked up Kelsey, who was shocked, although she didn't tell me until months later, that I was belting out an off-key version of the  Kelly Clarkson song that was pounding out of the fancy Bose speakers.  I passed the drive this way, winding around turns, singing loudly, excited for my first outdoor climbing experience.  The actual climbing experience turned out to be pretty uneventful.  We had one tiny crashpad, Kelsey showed me a few easy climbs, and we quickly grew cold and decided to go eat.  On the way home, Kelsey's head bobbed a bit more, she mouthed a few words of the familiar songs, and a bond began to form.  This bond, now as familiar to me as the back of my hand, was foreign at the time, but it would shape my next decade tremendously.  The bond that forms between the road, the rocks, and the people by our sides had planted a seed in my young, 17 year old mind.  

The first time I drove a good, long distance to go climbing was right after I had graduated high school when my boyfriend and I decided to go up to Oregon and climb at Smith Rock for a week.  We loaded up my CRV with all sorts of stuff.  We drove, sang along to the radio, marveled at the beautiful scenery unfolding before us.  We set up a six-person tent for the two of us, inflated a queen-size air mattress and camped in style.  We grilled up steak and made mashed potatoes on the camp stove we had borrowed from our good friend.  I remember looking at that stove, seeing all the dings, little pocks of rust on the green exterior, small signs of years of use, and thinking, "wow, this stove, like the friend I borrowed it from, has been a lot of places."  And that was one of those moments, a little flicker of inspiration, the awareness of something inconsequential like dirt on a stove, that ignites something inside you, that nudges you, and makes you say, "I too shall go many places."  

That trip was great, and it did inspire me, and make me want to get out and climb more.  Soon I took a trip to Thailand, and spent time climbing in the paradise of Tonsai.  The following summer, my first real climbing road trip would take place at age 19.  My friend Jen decided to move to Colorado.  No sooner had she told me, than I was volunteering to accompany her on the drive.  "I'll go with you!" I had said excitedly.  "We can stop and climb in all sorts of places on the way!"  It didn't matter that it was the middle of July, and that we would be driving through the desert.  We were psyched and we began planning.

Looking back on that trip, I wonder how we accomplished anything, how we ever found any of the climbing areas we were looking for, how we didn't starve.  At the time though, it was the adventure of a lifetime.  We were on a budget.  We didn't use the A/C so we could get better gas mileage, even when we drove through the sweltering heat of Nevada and Utah.  We bought food before we left- a few Clif Bars, some dried fruit, and a jar of peanut butter.  Those snacks would sustain us through four states and six climbing areas.  When we were hungry, we would get out a spoon, dip it into our jar of peanut butter, have a scoop, and go back to driving or climbing.  

We didn't have any maps, just a faulty GPS, and a few old guidebooks.  Somehow, we made it from one place to the next.  From Big Chief in Truckee to Maple Canyon, to Joe's Valley and on to Rifle.  From Rifle to Boulder.  In Boulder to Clear Creek and the Flagstaff Boulders.  We had the time of our lives.  The joy of the open road had fully affected us and we were giddy with the freedom that came with it.  We experienced the now familiar, then quite foreign, dilemma of finding somewhere to sleep.  On a particularly long drive from Joe's to Rifle, we stopped at an information center to ask about camping.  The women suggested we sleep at the dog park at the end of the road.  We ran back to the car, holding our breaths, containing our laughter until we had shut the doors and driven out of the parking lot.  Then we erupted, tears rolling down our cheeks, laughing as we got back on the highway and continued driving into the night.  


It was cemented then.  The Climbing Road Trip.  It had become a full-blown thing, something I needed as much as food or water.  I had experienced the intriguing tastes of it with Kelsey, with Tim, and then got a full entree of it with Jen, and by the end of that summer of 2008, I was hooked.  In the upcoming years, I would face a few difficulties in fulfilling this insatiable desire to get out, to drive, to climb, to make connections with whatever wonderful human being was in the passenger seat.  I went away to college and suddenly knew no one, had no climbing partners, I lost my greatest climbing partner, Tim, in 2010.  Slowly though, I started making connections in my new home.  I met Ben and we made a journey to Joshua Tree for spring break where I did my first trad lead.  I met Ian, Casey, Lisa, Alex, Eric and Trevor.  Most importantly I met Chelsea.  The perfect road trip co-pilot, who had the same drop everything, let's hit the road attitude as me.  And then a new era began.  

Moe's Valley

Moe's Valley is in St. George, Utah, a mere two hours from Las Vegas.  We arrived there with plans to stay a few days and try to put some projects to rest that we had started on a previous trip.  Moe's is a great little area, very laid back, with some high quality sandstone and lots of moderates.  We spent a week walking the red dusty trails and sampling some really stellar climbs.

I had my eye on Underwhelmed, a really cool V6 that follows a horizontal roof out to an arete.  I was able to do all the moves except for one.  I must have tried that single move at least 30 times in one session, but still was not able to stick it.  Nevertheless, I was happy with the links I made on the problem and the fact that I got all the other moves figured out.  The climb is kind of my anti-style, big powerful moves, versus the more techy climbs I usually favor.

The other climb I wanted to do was Sichuan Peppercorn, V5, and possibly Kung-Pao, the V6 that traverses into the 5.  I decided to figure out Sichuan Peppercorn first and then try to do the additional moves at the start.  The features on this climb are so unique and I kept finding myself doing a right knee-bar, which put me in a natural body position to bring my right hand up to a positive crimp.  Unfortunately I needed my left hand there.  The knee-bar was so cool and I wanted to use it so bad, but eventually I had to train myself out of using it and go up left hand.  After a few sessions I sent the problem.  I then did the moves on Kung Pao, and went almost to the top of the problem, moves I had done so many times on Sichuan, but I ran out of gas before I could top out.  I was still psyched to have Sichuan Peppercorn in the bag though!

Chelsea did numerous really cool V3s and made good progress on some 4s.  The days passed by lazily as we enjoyed the sun during the day, and took the dogs on evening runs once the temperatures cooled down.  We ate well, got lots of sleep, and met some cool crusher kids from Salt Lake City.  After a week in Moe's, we woke up to a sudden downpour, lightning, and hail.  We jumped in the van and headed out, of the Valley, not wanting to test Silas' ability to climb the steep dirt hill once it became mud.  A few errands in town, and we set our sights east towards Joe's Valley, where we are currently residing and waiting for a storm to pass so we can get out on the rock!


Adventure On. LP