Sunday, April 19, 2015

The 9 Stages of Projecting

I don't always project boulder problems, but when I do it usually goes something like this:


1. Infatuation.  You see the problem in the guidebook.  None of the following icons are listed: pumpy, powerful, bad landing, highball, overhung, reachy.  Yes, things are off to a good start.  The grade is right at your upper limit.  Oh, there's even a picture, and it's pretty darn aesthetic.  You love this problem and the idea of its perfect movement, holds that are just good enough, hard enough to stump you for a while, but not too hard that you won't overcome the struggle.  This could be the one.  Your new project.

2. Hope.  You grab your pads and stuff in your necessary projecting materials.  Brush, shoes, other shoes, chalk, and mega snacks.  Because projecting burns a lot of calories (or am I the only one who eats my weight in trail mix while I'm climbing?).  You hike up to the line and when you see it in all it's glory, it is even better than you had imagined it.  You touch a few holds.  You envision the moves.  You see yourself sending it.  Yes, it looks possible, you may even send it today!  Hell, you might even flash it!

3. Fear.  You grab the start holds and you cannot pull off the ground.  Panic quickly sets in as you wonder, 'what if I can't do it?!'  

4. Hope, Part 2.  After proper pad arrangement, you've found that you can lift your rump off the ground, and you again feel that the line is possible.

5. Hatred.  Nothing is as it seems.  The moves are contrived, the holds are crap, you hate this problem.  You call it names.  'Stupid problem!  You are so stupid!  And lame!  How did you get three stars!?'

6. Infatuation, Part 2.  By some error in your beta remembering, you've put your foot somewhere else and somehow stuck the move that was previously impossible.  Then you make a link.  You love this problem!  It is so fun, and the moves go, and you might just send it after all.

7. Exhaustion.  So. Tired.  Your skin is thrashed and you can barely lift your arms.  You are thinking about calling it a day.  Just one more go.  Wait, just one more go.  Ok, last go.  Ok, really this time, this is the last go.  Actually, that one didn't count, because, well it just didn't, so this is the last go.     

8. The miracle.  You are standing on top of the boulder.  Unaware of how you arrived there, you try to recall the events leading up to this moment.  "Nice send!"  yells your friend from the ground.  I sent?  I sent!?  YAY!  Time for a nap.

9. Cookies, donut, ice cream. 

Sunday, April 12, 2015

Underwear, an orange, and border patrol

On being sketchy girls in a sketchy van


Chelsea and I are not very serious people.  As such, we don't tend to do particularly well in serious situations.  Like border crossings.  Our lucky streak of being stopped and searched began on our 2013 trip when we were trying to cross into New Brunswick.  We had several things going against our favor: we were bleary eyed from driving and multiple days of rain, we had been sleeping in a Honda CRV (as we did in those days) with the two dogs in the aforementioned rain without showering for an extended period of time.  I was tattooed, tank topped, braless, and sporting California plates on my car.  And we had terrible answers to the border agent's questions.  We had left on this road trip after completing our seasonal winter jobs in Jackson, WY, and when the agent asked where we lived, we were a bit stumped.  We didn't technically live in Jackson any more.  Neither of us had lived in California in over a year. We were legitimately homeless.  We stuttered about and I think eventually settled on California.  Then they asked what we did for work.  Another guaranteed stumper.  Unemployed?  Then we also answered incorrectly when he asked us when we were last in Canada (legit mistake, the years all run together sometimes!) We did have appropriate answers to the other question that usually hangs us up- where we were headed.  We were visiting a friend on Prince Edward Island who was attending vet school.  "Mmhmm.  Pull ahead, park and head inside for a backgroud check."  Damn!  The agent had seemed so friendly and jokey with us.  We shuffled into the office and handed over our passports.  Once we were deemed ok to enter, the dogs were looked over and we were on our way into the Canadian night.  We thanked our lucky stars that they didn't pull apart the jam packed car and search it because repacking it would have been a nightmare.  

A few weeks later, we were on our way back to the US.  I was genuinely nervous about the border crossing.  We practiced our answers.  We pulled up and the kind gentleman in the booth asked "where are you headed?"  I looked him in the eye and said "yup!"  Somehow in my nervousness I had completely misunderstood what he asked me.  Chelsea shook her head and sighed.  Thankfully, the agent let us through without a hassle and I promised Chelsea I would do better next time.

A couple weeks later, we were at it again.  This time we were headed north from Vermont.  We were going to visit a friend in Ottawa and then head west and cross back into the US in Michigan.  We pulled up and the first thing the agent asked was, "where are you headed?"  "California," I answered confidently.  "You're going the wrong way," he said, totally deadpan.  Shit, I thought.  "Well, we're going to turn left here shortly, and cross the Sue St. Marie into Michigan," I explained.  This guy was nice too, and we were on our way without further questioning.

Fast forward to 2015.  We started off quite well.  We easily crossed the border into Canada from a small crossing in Montana.  Little did the agent know, but all he had to do to stump us was ask us what province we thought we were crossing in to. We were shocked to cross the border and see a "Welcome to BC" sign.  We thought we were in Alberta.  Oops.  Anyway, we made it to our destination without any trouble.  We spent about a week in Lake Louise, Banff, Yoho, and Jasper National Parks.  From there we planned to head to Whistler, but our friend Clancy invited us down to Olympia, WA for the weekend for a seafood cookout, paddling, and a promised good time.  We couldn't resist so we gunned it for the states.  We again had an easy crossing and then a truly fantastic weekend in Washington.  

We headed north to complete our ski season in Whistler and check off the last destination on our ski pass.  We stocked up on food at Trader Joe's and headed for the border.  We pulled up and answered the first few questions like border-crossing champs.  We are headed to Whistler.  We are going skiing. We will be there for one week.  Even though they always ask where you're staying I wasn't prepared for it this time.  I thought saying we were going to Whistler would bypass this.  "In the van."  Damn.  Bad answer.  He started jotting down notes on a yellow piece of paper.  He asked when we were last in Canada.  "Thursday" I answered assuredly.  It was Sunday.  This did not seem to please him.  I'm sure he thought we must be running loads of weed up from Washington or something.  He asked us why we were in Canada on Thursday, drove back to California and then were returning to Canada so soon.  I tried to explain that we had just gone down to Washington for the weekend to visit a friend.  "Pull over, lane 7, the man there will tell you what to do."  Sigh.  We pulled up and were instructed to put the dogs in little metal crates that were sitting outside in the rain and to head inside.  We lined up and handed the agents our passports and our mysterious yellow paper with the codes written on it from outside.  Three agents went outside to search our van.    We sat and stared at our feet and then tried to stifle our chuckles as we saw curling come on the TVs above our head. All the random things in the van that might appear weird to an outsider starting finding their way into my head. I wondered what they would think when they found the Gatorade bottle that I spit my toothpaste into when there isn't a better option. Ew.  Eventually our van was deemed drug free and we were allowed to reclaim the dogs and leave.  

The thing about these searches is that they don't actually tell you anything.  You know they are searching your van, but they don't implicitly say it, and when you're allowed to leave, they just say 'ok you can go.'  There's no explanation of why you were stopped, what they were looking for, nothing.  It is terribly intrusive and frankly, violating to have a bunch of men go into your home and paw through your stuff.  I had a few pairs of underwear that were wet from paddling in the rain that weekend that I had laid on the bed to dry, and sure enough they were shuffled through.  The pillows were moved around and one of the organizers on the back door had somehow been ripped off in the process of the search.  The good feelings for Canada were gone and we just wanted to get our ski days in and GTFO.  

We ended up having a great time hiking around Squamish and skiing our last two days of the season in Whistler.  We were amped to get back to the US and get climbing.  We were also getting kind of fat from going to Tim Horton's every time we needed to use our phone.  You can't go in for wifi without getting donuts of course.  We cruised down the road, and made it back to the US border in no time.  

We got there around 8 and there was no line.  As we pulled up, I'm pretty sure the agent in the booth was already prepared to send us in for a search.  He barely paid attention to the questions he was asking, let alone our answers.  He handed us a search warrant before he even saw Titan sitting in the front of the van.  "Oh, wait, you have dogs?" he asked.  "Yes, two."  He explained where the dogs kennels were and sent us on our way.  Now we were just feeling annoyed.  We obviously aren't on any sort of time schedule, so it's not like we are being held up from anything, but we really didn't think we would be hassled trying to get back into the US.  We locked the dogs into a concrete kennel, apologized and told them we would be back soon.  Apparently we arrived during a shift change, so we and the other few groups in line, sat there unmoving for a good ten minutes while people shuffled around in the back of the office.  Finally, one agent came on duty and started processing things.  I could tell that he took great pleasure in the THWACK that his stamp made when he finished someone's paperwork.  We were called up and given customs forms to fill out.  Then we were asked all sorts of questions, including what food we had in the van.  I started listing things.  Mushrooms, rice, quinoa, broccoli, onions, kale, bananas, apples, an orange... "An orange?"  "Half an orange..." "That might not be coming back with you."  "Not my orange!"  This guy at least seemed to have a sense of humor.  We couldn't tell if we should be really serious, or if it was ok to be lighthearted.  He went to tell another agent to search our van and we heard him say, "there's an orange in there."  I had no idea my orange would cause so many problems!  Chelsea hates oranges but I insisted on getting one and had eaten half of it before we started driving.  A few minutes later, the agent came back.  "Wow! Your van is very.... organized!"  Haha!  I'm pretty sure this guy wasn't even the one who was supposed to search our van but he was just curious to see it.  Then he told us it sort of smelled!  "It smells!?" We both asked, incredulously.  We hadn't noticed.  "I mean, just like a travel vehicle," he said, "you know.  I've smelled much worse!"  I just laughed and told him I guessed I would take that as a compliment.  He let us on our way.  Sans orange.

After that, we decided we were glad we would't have to cross the border again until July.  Unfortunately, we have four more crossings in our foreseeable future.  One into Canada, then into Alaska, then back into Canada, then back into the lower 48.  At this point, we are resigning ourselves to the fact that we will probably get searched more often than not.  It kind of just goes with the territory.  In the grand scheme of things, it's just a minor inconvenience and not really a big deal or something to get upset about. The agents are trying to do their jobs well and apparently we fit the sketchy bill. Being profiled for a lifestyle that I've chosen to live is nothing compared to the profiling other people are subjected to on a daily basis for things they can't change. I just wish I could see the border patrols faces when they step into the van and see that it looks like an 8 year old girl lives in it.  I think opening the door and seeing colored foam floors, chalkboards, big bubbles on the wall and penguin curtains is probably a lot more shocking than finding an eighth would be.        


     

Saturday, March 14, 2015

Bozeman | Big Sky


Montana is the bee’s knees!  I could definitely move here.  We’ve spent the last week between Big Sky and Bozeman and we have loved every minute of it.  It is gorgeous, and there is so much opportunity for playing outside.  Another bonus aside from all the fishing, climbing, skiing, hiking around, is that all the campgrounds are still technically closed for the season, but most of them are accessible (some you still can’t get to because of closed roads or excessive snow).  That means that there is no trash service or water, but if you pack in your own things and pack our your trash, you can stay there for free!  THE BEST!  We’ve been climbing in Gallatin Canyon and Hyalite Canyon, hiking in Beehive Basin in Big Sky, and fishing along the Gallatin River.  We really don’t know what we are doing when it comes to fly fishing, but we both had bites, which was super encouraging.  Another exciting moment this week was running into my old college roommates, Mike and Kent, and Mike’s wife, Marisa in Big Sky.  We had pizza and talked about the good old days.  We received a big surprise last night, when we went to the climbing gym to see if we could shower, and they let us shower for free!  Then we got a milkshake.  I may stay forever.  Here are some pictures from the last week:  


















Jackson

After leaving Salt Lake, we headed north to Logan, UT to meet up with our friend Ryann.  Ryann is in vet school in Logan, and we were fortunate enough to have it snow while we were there!  We set off on a hike and by the time we were back, a nice blanket of fresh white was covering everything.  We hiked up to some awesome wind caves with Titan, Star, and Ryann's Dalmatian, Seth.

Then it was on to Jackson, WY.  Chelsea and I lived in Jackson two winters ago and we were so excited to get back and spend time in the Tetons and visit old friends, especially our old roommate, Josh.
We started off our time with a visit to Julie and her boyfriend, Alex, who live in an amazing cabin in Moose.  We had our coldest night of the trip yet, at -15 degrees and woke up to a jaw-dropping sunrise on the Tetons.  The next week was filled with lots of skate-skiing in GTNP, hiking, eating, and catching up.  We skied one day at JHMR with Josh.  We also started teaching the dogs to skijor, which was entertaining and a blast when they started to pick it up.

After a week, we headed over to the other side of the pass to visit my friend Kaybe.  We had an absolutely stellar weekend.  We went on our longest skate yet (8 miles) in Teton Canyon (and Titan kept up the whole way), went climbing at the new gym in Driggs, saw some live music, made french toast, and had our best day of skiing yet at Grand Targhee.  We took a slow morning and arrived at the mountain in time to see the very finals of the telemark races, which turned out to be way cooler than what we had imagined (we didn't imagine there were be people hucking cliffs!).  Then we hiked up Mary's and got some actual POWDER!  It was AMAZING.  That side of the Tetons has such a wonderful vibe, and we headed back over the pass on Sunday night with huge smiles on our faces.


Our next week in the Tetons featured more skating, a bit of skiing, and hiking.  On our second day of skiing at the resort, we woke up to 5 inches of fresh powder.  We got to the mountain as soon as we could, knowing from experience how fast it gets skied out.  I came out way too psyched and just completely ate it on my third turn of the day.  I lost a ski and let out an audible 'oof' once I stopped rolling and sliding down the mountain.  I definitely didn't feel quite right and after testing out a few easy groomers I decided I shouldn't ski any more and headed to the van to rest my knee.  On Friday, March 6, we got to celebrate Star's 6th birthday, which was awesome!  We went on a really long hike, which featured birthday hats, mud and snow, and lots of treats!

The Tetons are so insanely beautiful, and it felt incredibly nice to spend time there.  It was so different than when we lived there and worked so much that we didn't have very much time to actually enjoy where we were.  Our time there definitely has us thinking about moving back in the near future.  
















Alta | Snowbird

Alta and Snowbird were the next resorts on our Mountain Collective pass.  We arrived in Salt Lake to find no snow on the ground and stories about how dry it had been.  Nevertheless, we also heard that the coverage was still good on the mountain, which was good enough for us!  We drove way up Little Cottonwood Canyon to Alta to find it rather cold.  We had acclimated to skiing in 45 degree weather and kind of forgot how to handle temperatures in the teens.  Unfortunately, our boots slept under the bed in the van and were pretty frozen when we went to put them on.  The frozenness of our feet made it's way up our bodies until we were pretty popsicley and sad by the end of the second run.  We went into a lodge and warmed our boots under the hand dryer, which helped for a run or two, but then it was back to being cold.  We went back to the van to regroup.  I put on as many layers at possible, warmed my feet in my down booties, and had a hot chocolate.  After that, we felt rejuvenated and skiied the rest of the day.  The groomers were really awesome, and the coverage was really good, despite not having received snow in a while.  It was interesting skiing at a resort with only skiers- no snowboarders allowed.  Alta is a stellar mountain and I am excited to go back sometime to get some of that Utah powder (again, about a week after we left they got EPICALLY dumped on.  Dangit!).
Next up was Snowbird, just down the canyon from Alta.  It was back to 45 degree weather on our day there.  We checked out most of the mountain and had a good time exploring.  Alta and Snowbird are both really cool mountains and I'm glad they got a bunch of snow after we left, because I'm sure the rest of the season there will be stellar!



Salt Lake City

After skiing Apsen, we head to Moab and then Indian Creek, which I touched on in the post, Diversions.  After that it was time to head to Salt Lake!  We were really excited to meet up with my friend Drew, who I hadn't seen in years.  Drew and I grew up in the same town and went to highschool together.  We were snowboarding (I used to be a snowboarder!) and climbing buddies before we went our seperate ways to college.  Drew is a super positive, high-energy person and I was excited to see what he was up to in Salt Lake.  Fortunately, our timing was just right, because Drew had just been offered a new job and learned that he would be moving to New York at the end of the week!  I was glad we got the chance to catch up and meet his wonderful girlfriend, Emily before the big move.  Salt Lake is home to many other wonderful things that we wanted to check out as well (including skiing, next post!).
One of those things is Goal Zero, the company that makes the solar panels that we have on top of the van and the generator that we have inside the van that powers our lights and fan, and charges our computer, phones, cameras, etc.  I had emailed Goal Zero before we arrived in Salt Lake to see if we could have a tour of their HQ, and to my delight they said yes!  We met James and Ryan in the foyer of the building, which included a slide and a climbing wall (awesome).  They showed us all around the building and explained where everything happens.  They even hooked us up with one of their new proudcts, the Flip 10, and a bunch of stickers!  Thanks again guys!
Another company we loved that is located in SLC is PROBAR.  We basically live off of PROBARs (we started the trip with a stock of 10 boxes).  They are delicious and nutritious and made with real food and nothing else.  We made the fine folks at PROBAR a valentine out of woven together wrappers from our bars, and headed out to see them.  Unfortunately, we went to their old office first and it was just about the time when they were going to close for the weekend.  We raced over to their new office, and after disappointingly pulling on locked doors, a smiling face appeared and let us in!  We gave them our valentine and they hooked us up with a bunch of bars!  If you haven't tried their bars, I highly recommend you do.  You can find them at REI and a bunch of other spots.  We really like their new snack bars, Bite.  
One last company that has a warehouse in SLC is the company I was working for before this trip, Backroads.  Aaron at Backrods was nice enough to hook us up with a bike box for Drew to ship his bike to NY in, and he also showed up around the warehouse.  So many bikes!  
Before leaving SLC, we met up with our good friends, the Checketts.  As a kid, the Checketts lived next door and we all played together and had the best time running around in the street, jumping on the trampoline, and exploring in the creek and the nearby park.  Their home is so full of love and positive energy, so it was wonderful to stop by and have a delicious waffle breakfast and catch up a bit.  
In addition to all the running around, we went on some really cool hikes with Titan and Star.  We misinterpreted a trail sign and ended up doing a 10 mile hike after a full day of skiing, which was kind of exhuasting, and we also did some fun night hiking, and went on a cool trial system above the city.  Salt Lake is a great place and definitely somewhere I would consider living for a while.  Thanks for the good times!






Aspen | Snowmass

Our next stop was the next resort on our Mountain Collective ski pass, Apsen.  We preceded the trip to Aspen from Breckenridge by breaking down (surprise! not.) and then by stopping in Carbondale to vist our friend Will from college.  It seems that a great deal of our college friends have migrated to Colorado in the recent years.  Carbondale seems like a very cool town from the short time we spent there, and it was great to catch up with Will and meet his girlfriend, Lucy.  After a nice sleep outside of their apartment, we were on the road to Aspen.  We were lucky enough to arrive at Apsen-Highlands on skier appreciation day, which meant free muffins and parking, score!  We skied some nice groomers and then decided to get a workout by hiking up to Highlands bowl.  We felt terribly out of shape as we headed up the bootpack.  Finally, we arrived at the summit, and we were rewarded for our hard work!  There was awesome powder and very few people in the bowl.  We had a great ski down, but unfortunately arrived too late for the free hot dogs at the base of the bowl.  Drat!  We were pretty tired after the hike and skied a few more groomers before calling it a day.
We heard that sleeping in our vehicle in Aspen might be a challange so we headed way out into a canyon to a cool trailhead where we took the dogs on a really pretty snowshoe.  Soon it was dark and we crawled into the van for one of our epic 14 hour sleeping sessions.  The next day was filled with frisbee with the dogs and various different hikes as we searched for some neat trailheads in the area.  We managed to sleep closer to town that night, in the parking lot at one of the bus stops.  The next morning began a little warmly as we headed up to Aspen-Snowmass (there are four different Aspen mountains, it is a bit confusing to figure out at first).  It was a super warm day and we both hit rocks right after getting off the first lift.  The first half of the day was a bit frustrating as we struggled with the conditions, so we headed for lunch.  After lunch, things got a lot better as we explored different parts of the mountain and we ended up skiing until last chair.  All in all, we really enjoyed the mountains, and we were really jealous about all the snow that fell soon after we left.  Our timing seems to be really off on this trip, it keeps snowing after we leave! So if you are looking for good snow, just pay attention to where we are and go there about a week later!